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Portland Union Station: An Historical Beacon of the Pacific Northwest

Published: February 4, 2025

By: Adam Burns

Nestled in the heart of Portland, Oregon, standing as a testament to the city's historical, architectural, and cultural legacy, is Portland Union Station.

The facility is located adjacent to the western bank of the Willamette River in the historic Old Town Chinatown district, operates as a key intermediary stop for Amtrak’s Cascades and Coast Starlight routes. Alongside King Street Station in Seattle, it serves as one of the two western endpoints for the Empire Builder line.

This station stands as a pivotal transportation hub for the greater Portland area, offering seamless connections to the MAX Light Rail system, the Portland Streetcar, and various local and intercity bus services.

The facility houses Wilf's Restaurant & Bar at street level, while the upper stories are allocated for office use. Notably, it features Amtrak’s first Metropolitan Lounge on the West Coast, exclusively available to first-class and business-class passengers in sleeping cars.

To the southeast, the rail tracks execute a pronounced curve and traverse the Willamette River via the historic Steel Bridge.

To the northwest, the tracks run parallel to the river, proceeding through various rail yards before crossing the river once more over the Burlington Northern Railroad Bridge 5.1.

Owned by the City of Portland and managed by Prosper Portland, the city's urban redevelopment authority, the station garners an annual revenue of $200,000 from its leasing arrangements with approximately 30 tenants. As the primary occupant, Amtrak maintains a lease agreement that extends through at least 2021.

This illustrious edifice not only serves as a bustling transportation hub but also embodies the rich tapestry of Portland's past, resonating with stories of its inception, evolution, and enduring significance.

Portland Union Station in a photo by Carol Highsmith taken on June 7, 2018.

Historical Overview

Portland Union Station was inaugurated on February 14, 1896, at a time when the expansion of the railways was revolutionizing travel and commerce in America.

Its establishment was primarily driven by the Northern Pacific Terminal Company, a key player in the Pacific Northwest's transportation network. 

The station quickly became a linchpin in the development of Portland and the broader Oregon region. It facilitated a vibrant influx of immigrants, tourists, and traders, serving as a conduit for economic and cultural exchanges.

The rail line stretched beyond the state, connecting Portland to major cities like Seattle, San Francisco, and beyond, and transforming it into a critical node in the tapestry of America's rail network.

Architectural Significance

The architectural allure of Portland Union Station is not merely confined to its historical roots. Its structure is an intricate amalgamation of design innovation and aesthetic finesse.

In 1882, the architectural firm McKim, Mead & White devised the initial design for a train station that, had it been realized, would have stood as the largest of its kind globally. However, in 1885, a more modest proposal by architects Van Brunt & Howe was accepted. This led to the commencement of construction in 1890 by the firm Wakefield and Bridges, with a total expenditure of $300,000, equivalent to $11 million today. The station was inaugurated on February 14, 1896.

Its architectural details include a bright red metal roof, intricate exposed pressed red brickwork, grey sandstone accents, and pebbledash stucco facade. A notable feature includes the metal canopies with cast iron supports over the entryway. The annex, also constructed in 1896 by Wakefield and Bridges, housed various facilities including a freestanding steam plant, storerooms, a telegraph office, a laundry, and a police room. Upon its 1896 opening, the station premises contained six parallel railroad tracks, accessible to passengers through a long, narrow, enclosed one-story shed attached to the building's eastern side. For nearly a decade, these tracks were left unsheltered.

To accommodate a surge in rail travelers anticipated for the 1905 Lewis and Clark Exposition in Portland, track shelters were subsequently installed.

The station’s most distinctive architectural element is its 150-foot Romanesque Revival clock tower, equipped with a four-sided Seth Thomas eight-day pendulum clock, installed in 1898. This clock tower has transcended its utilitarian purpose to become a prominent symbol of the station. Each clock face spans 12 feet in diameter, with minute and hour hands measuring 6 feet and 5 feet respectively. The clock features a 14-foot pendulum and a counterweight of 1,000 pounds, which descends nearly 50 feet over the course of a week. The clock is manually wound every seven days. In 1948, neon signs were affixed to the tower, displaying the phrases "Go by Train" on the northeast and southwest sides, and "Union Station" on the northwest and southeast sides.

Inside, the station maintains its historical integrity with original woodwork, expansive skylights, and terrazzo floors. The grand waiting room majestically stretches, adorned by high ceilings and large windows that saturate the space with natural light, creating an ambiance of both grandeur and warmth. These elements, preserved meticulously over the years, allow visitors to step back in time to an era when train travel epitomized modernity and romance.

In 1927, the Terminal Rail Company enlisted the esteemed architectural firm A.E. Doyle from Portland to undertake the renovation of the station. Pietro Belluschi, a young designer of the time with limited architectural training, was given the responsibility of overseeing the project. Input was provided by Southern Pacific, Union Pacific, and Northern Pacific, who were the owners of the Terminal Rail Company, leading to the completion of the drawings in 1929. Key changes included: reorganizing the structure and functionality of the main waiting room (such as removing interior cast-iron columns) and associated public spaces; redesigning entry and exit routes from the street and tracks; and restructuring the wing between the restaurant dining area and the main hall. To enhance natural lighting, dormers were installed. The new exterior finishes closely matched the original design. For the remodeling, marble for the floors and walls was imported from Italy. Since this renovation in 1930, little has been altered within the station.

In 1931, a pedestal was constructed in the station's courtyard to display the Oregon Pony locomotive, built in 1862, at the station's forefront. This locomotive was later relocated to Cascade Locks, Oregon, in 1970.

During the early 1920s, the station saw an impressive daily movement of ninety trains, comprising 52 steam trains and 38 electrics, with a train arriving or departing every 11 minutes on average. The expansion of services at Union Station, tied to the Spokane, Portland, and Seattle Railway line in the 1920s, necessitated substantial modifications to both the building and the tracks. At its operational zenith in the late 1940s, Union Station boasted as many as 30 separate tracks, extending eastward to Front Avenue. Over time, the reliance on freight rail diminished as some businesses opted for trucks for shipping goods instead of railroads.

Cultural and Economic Impact

Portland Union Station's value extends beyond its immediate function as a transport facility. Its presence has indelibly shaped the cultural and economic landscape of Portland. The station anchors the Pearl District, a vibrant community characterized by an eclectic mix of galleries, shops, and eateries, attracting tourists and locals alike. The surrounding area has undergone significant redevelopment, with the station acting as a catalyst for urban renewal and economic revitalization.

Culturally, the station stands as an intersection of art, history, and community. It frequently serves as a venue for events that celebrate Portland's diverse cultural fabric, from art exhibitions to public gatherings, fostering a sense of community connected by shared space and history. Moreover, its inclusion on the National Register of Historic Places underscores its importance as a preserved monument, safeguarding the city's architectural heritage for future generations.

Challenges and Preservation Efforts

The significance of Portland Union Station's historical and cultural contribution is not without challenges.

The structure, now over a century old, requires ongoing maintenance and preservation efforts to fend off the ravages of time and environmental wear. These preservation efforts are vital not only to maintaining the physical integrity of the structure but also to preserving the rich stories it encompasses.

Before Amtrak took over passenger operations on May 1, 1971, the Union Pacific's City of Portland transported passengers from Chicago to Portland via Utah. Amtrak then ran a successor train, the Pioneer, on a similar path to Portland until 1997.

In 1975, the station earned a spot on the National Register of Historic Places.  In 1987, the possession of the station and its adjacent land transitioned from the Portland Terminal Railroad to the Portland Development Commission, now known as Prosper Portland, as part of the Downtown/Waterfront urban renewal initiative. Subsequently, Union Station underwent extensive renovations and was ceremoniously rededicated in 1996 to commemorate its centennial anniversary.

Today

Portland Union Station stands as a living relic, bridging the past and present. It reveals how historical architecture can adapt and thrive in a modern setting, providing essential services while enriching urban landscapes with cultural and historical continuity. As Portland continues to evolve, so too does its iconic station, positioned at the heart of the city's ongoing narrative.

In the ever-moving world of transportation and urban development, Portland Union Station acts as a steadfast reminder of the city's roots and a hopeful progenitor of its potential. Whether for a local on a daily commute or a tourist embarking on a new adventure, the station offers a palpable connection to the ribbons of rail that once dominated the American continent, standing as a beacon of history, culture, and community in the Pacific Northwest.